Yokohama is said to be the first place for western style bars in Japan. Hojo Tomoyuki is a bartender who runs the Cocktail Bar Nemanja and in 2018 he developed a one of a kind non alcoholic gin by the name of NEMA.
We tasted NEMA and were surprised to find that the depth of flavor was so rich that it didn’t feel like a non-alcoholic drink. It was a drinking experience like we never imagined.
We sat down with Hojo, sipping on the NEMA cocktails he crafted for us, to learn more about why he, a bartender renowned for his expertise in alcoholic beverages, began exploring the world of non-alcoholic drinks.
A rich flavored non alcoholic gin made from natural ingredients
From the very first sip, we were amazed by the depth and natural flavors of this gin. Hojo prepared three non alcoholic cocktails for us, all made using the non alcoholic gin NEMA, which were presented in a row in front of us.
If nobody told us, perhaps we would not have guessed it was a non alcoholic drink. In fact, whether it contained alcohol or not became irrelevant, as the cocktail was so deliciously smooth and full of flavor.
This is a drink you’d choose not because it’s alcohol-free, but because it’s simply that good—one you’d want to savor again and again.
NEMA has four types of gin available year round and a number of limited editions made for seasonal and special events.
Among the four, the standard variety is crafted with a base of two types of roses and juniper berries—key botanicals for gin—along with lavender, spices, and spring water sourced from the Yatsugatake Mountains.
The herbal liqueur, an absinthe-style drink, is made with nine botanicals, including wormwood and fennel. Their Old Tom gin features a subtle sweetness derived from distilled water extracted from nikki (cinnamon). Meanwhile, their whiskey-inspired drink combines peated malt, white oak, cacao, wild cardamom, and other ingredients to create a rich, smoky, and woody flavor.
Each ingredient is carefully distilled, refined, and blended to perfection.
NEMA spares no effort when selecting ingredients, using only natural ingredients to ensure that their drinks are free from artificial fragrances, additives, and preservatives.
Roses are a key botanical in their recipes, with two distinct varieties at the heart of their craft. One is the Overnight Sensation rose, which was famously transported by space shuttle and used in fragrance experiments in space. The other is Golm Hammadi, a variety believed to be the first rose distilled by humans over 2,000 years ago, when ancient Persians used it to create distilled water.
All of NEMA’s rose distilled water is sourced from Asaoka Rose, a farm located at the foothills of Mt. Yatsugatake in Fujimi, Nagano. Asaoka Rose grows its roses without pesticides, a challenging feat in the region, ensuring the highest quality and purity in every bottle.
Three types of non-alcoholic cocktails
Hojo states, “I want to create drinks for those who cannot consume alcohol, choose not to, or simply wish to enjoy a delicious beverage while having a great time.”
He then introduced three non-alcoholic cocktails he had prepared for us.The first, the “Nema Tonic,” is a gin and tonic-inspired drink made with NEMA as a substitute for gin. Served in a large wine glass to capture the refreshing aromas of the herbs, the drink is beautifully garnished with persimmon leaves and a gold chrysanthemum flower. The decorations resemble a terrarium, giving the drink a distinctive autumnal charm.
The “Sober Highball” is crafted with the whiskey-inspired NEMA, offering a rich, deep, and elegant smokiness that makes it almost impossible to believe it’s non-alcoholic.
The “Three Dollar Bill”, a non-alcoholic twist of the classic “Million Dollar” cocktail that originated in Yokohama, gets its clever name from the saying, “as rare as a three dollar bill.”
This creative drink is made with the Old Tom-style NEMA and features a perfect balance of sweetness and warmth from ginger, complemented by the fruity berry notes of pomegranate juice, sugar, and non-alcoholic grenadine syrup. According to Hojo, it’s one of the most popular cocktails at Nemanja.
An insatiable desire to explore paves the way to new possibilities
Hojo’s passion for bartending began during his high school years.
While working part-time at the coffee corner of a supermarket, he often found himself helping out in the adjacent liquor section due to a staffing shortage. Over time, he gained a deep knowledge of liquor products and even managed to boost profits in that section with his impressive sales skills.
Eager to learn more, Hojo started reading books about cocktails and quickly became captivated by the craft.
“Back then I was good at art and drawing and I had even won a grand prize in an art contest. This gave me the opportunity to continue my studies at an art college, but I did not enjoy studying in school so I wasn’t enthusiastic about pursuing it. When I started working with liquor, I felt the same excitement in cocktails as I did in art and painting. I realized I could express art through adult beverages. As a teenager eager to grow up, I found the profession of a bartender incredibly appealing.”
Although Hojo claims that he “didn’t like to study”, his knowledge of liquor and drinks rivals that of a scholar or researcher.
When he discusses cocktails, he goes beyond simply describing their ingredients and preparation, delving into their historical background and the stories behind the people who created them.
Hojo even cultivates a variety of plants on the porch outside his bar, using them as fresh ingredients for his drinks.
“I think I have always been a person who gets completely absorbed in something when it captures my interest. As a child, I loved monsters and memorized all their names even though I never memorized anything from school! (laughs)”
In the 1990s, Hojo mastered the techniques of flair bartending, a highly popular trend at the time, and went on to win numerous awards. His expertise even took him around the globe, where he served as a judge in international competitions. Today, he holds the title of honorable chairman and remains an influential figure in various areas of the bar industry.
Hojo also played a pivotal role as the supervisor for the craft gin produced at the Yokohama Gin Distillery. He continues to be one of the key advocates for promoting Yokohama as the birthplace of bars in Japan.
“I personally enjoy alcoholic drinks, but my passion lies in the cocktail world as a whole, which is why I wanted to create delicious non-alcoholic drinks as well,” Hojo explained. “I’ve been a bartender for 30 years now, but it was around 20 years ago that mocktails —non-alcoholic cocktails— started gaining attention.”
“I knew then that I needed to take this genre very seriously. I often traveled overseas for work and encountered many mocktails during those trips. I would order them and taste them, take notes on how they were mixed and gather inspiration and information from all around the world.”
Hojo’s expertise extends to writing, with several cocktail-focused books to his name. Since 2004, he has dedicated sections of his publications to mocktails. By the time he was preparing the fourth installment of his series in 2009, he intended to focus entirely on mocktails, introducing approximately 500 recipes.
Unfortunately, the book’s release was canceled—perhaps because Hojo was ahead of his time. At that point, he had already collected and created over 1,000 mocktail recipes.
A deep dive into researching Japanese aromatic distilled water and the birth of NEMA
About ten years ago, Hojo attended a seminar on aromatherapy that would later inspire his work in creating non-alcoholic gins. The seminar’s theme was centered around “health,” and Hojo presented a mixology drink that was entirely alcohol-free.
“At the time, Kanagawa Prefecture was heavily invested in projects related to disease prevention and healthy longevity. I was looking for a way to contribute, and by chance, a local doctor I met invited me to join the seminar,” Hojo explained.
The seminar involved measuring data such as brain waves to understand the effects of various drinks on the body. It also provided a platform to present research on the medicinal properties of different ingredients. “I introduced non-alcoholic gin as a potential ingredient that could contribute to health-focused beverages,” he shared. This marked the beginning of his journey to craft non-alcoholic alternatives that could offer the same complexity and appeal as traditional alcoholic drinks.
“We measured data on brain waves and other data on what happens after consuming drinks. The seminar also provided a platform to present research on the medicinal properties of different ingredients. I presented non-alcoholic gin as a possible idea for one such ingredient that could contribute to health-focused beverages.”
Hojo has always been driven by a desire to serve exceptional drinks, whether they are alcoholic or non-alcoholic. The seminar sparked his interest in turning the production of non-alcoholic gin into a full-fledged project.
At the time, Hojo’s concept for making non-alcoholic gin was groundbreaking in Japan.
“Non-alcoholic gin is made by blending aromatic distilled water (floral water, herbal water, etc.). I had worked with distilled water in cocktails before, but I hadn’t known much about aromatics back then, nor had I been particularly interested. The seminar ignited that interest, and from there, I began researching and learning more. Eventually, I dedicated myself fully to developing it.”
As Hojo’s research progressed, he discovered that aromatic distilled water had been produced in Japan as far back as the Edo Period (1603-1868). During that time, native Japanese flowers like the Japanese rose and kiku (chrysanthemum) were used to create lotions and serums.
Hojo acquired a ceramic distiller called a “ranbiki,” which was used during the Edo Period, and began experimenting with distillation techniques. He included an illustration of the ranbiki on the labels of his NEMA products.
Hojo’s research into aromatic distilled water accelerated from there.
Starting from scratch, he meticulously tested distilling various botanical ingredients in numerous ways, experimenting through trial and error. Over the course of four years, he compiled a vast amount of data, eventually creating around 300 types of distilled water.
“The ingredients are all natural, so whether they’re fresh or dried makes a huge difference,” Hojo explained. “Even if the ingredients come from the same region, their flavor can change depending on the season or the climate of each year. This experience taught me that I can’t assume that using a certain amount of a certain ingredient will yield the same result every time.”
“In order to fine tune the ingredients to get the result you want, it is important to deeply understand them and leverage the experience and knowledge you have accumulated over years.”
Hojo once had the rare opportunity to make distilled water from cherry blossoms harvested from the garden of Ninna-ji Temple in Kyoto.
During the brief period when the cherry blossoms were in bloom, he was granted special permission to collect the delicate petals after the temple had closed for the day.
Hojo says there are many very fascinating ingredients in Japan, though many are difficult to work with.
“For example, cherry blossoms alone come with various variables such as different varieties, the age of the trees, and the temperature at which the aroma is extracted. We test it all under different conditions, but even when distilling the same variety under the same circumstances, the results this year will be different from last year.”
As he continued his research and experimentation, Hojo realized that working with plants and flowers in nature posed its own set of challenges.
It was at this time that he met the aforementioned Asaoka Rose, which cultivates roses without pesticides and makes rose water with water from the Yatsugatake Mountains.
Hojo visited Asaoka Rose to experience their distillation process firsthand, where he confirmed the exceptional quality of their product. This collaboration marked a key turning point, helping Hojo take a significant step toward the commercialization of his products. In 2018, after years of research and refinement, he introduced Japan’s first non-alcoholic gin, NEMA, to the world.
Enhancing the bar experience with both alcoholic and non-alcoholic beverages
In recent years, it seems that the pressure to drink in social settings has decreased significantly.
The term “sober curious” has also gained more traction, representing a lifestyle choice that embraces drinking little or no alcohol while maintaining a positive and healthy outlook on beverage choices.
In the world of cuisine and gastronomy, more restaurants are offering non-alcoholic pairing courses and an increasing number of restaurants are offering non-alcoholic pairing courses, showcasing the growing demand for sophisticated alternatives to traditional alcoholic drinks. Thanks to the efforts of chefs, sommeliers, and bartenders, both alcoholic and non-alcoholic drinks are continuously evolving, with innovative new options emerging to meet the diverse preferences of today’s drinkers.
Hojo has noticed that the demand for NEMA has been growing steadily each year.
“When NEMA was first introduced to the market, many people saw it simply as a substitute for gin, and it wasn’t initially perceived very positively. However, soon after its release the coronavirus pandemic hit and non-alcoholic options became essential to the food and beverage industry. At first, I think many establishments started using it out of necessity, but they quickly recognized its unique qualities and attributes.”
“Today, NEMA is not only used in bars but is also featured in many foreign-affiliated and luxury hotels. Some places have even added it to their menus as a distinctive drink or offered it as part of a free-flow drink option for afternoon tea.”
Hojo points out that NEMA is easy to use and can be stored at room temperature, which minimizes the risk of depletion once the bottle is opened. He notes that using distilled natural botanicals for flavor provides better quality and preservation compared to using flavoring additives.
Hojo is now working on developing recipes that showcase the versatility of NEMA and exploring how it can be used in even more diverse situations.
When we asked Hojo about his vision for the future of the bar industry, he shared his thoughts on a return to more authentic, traditional styles of bars.
“I think there will be a full circle and a return to authentic style bars. I have explored all sorts of trends in the past, such as flair bartending which is difficult to master without good motor skills. Mixology calls for creativity and sensibility, which are also qualities that aren’t easily mastered by just anyone. As a result, it’s difficult to elevate the entire industry through such trends. However, authentic style bars have a spirit that is inclusive of everyone and uplifting as well.”
At the end of our interview, Hojo brewed a warm pot of handmade herbal tea.
The tea was a delicate blend of mint, rose, elderflower, chamomile, lavender and other herbs with a gentle floral aroma. Hojo explained that he created this blend as part of his personal health regimen, but it also provided another glimpse into his spirit of exploration and his commitment to natural, thoughtful ingredients.
Hojo says, “Shikohin are a necessary part of everyday life and if we can expand that world, it may lead us to a place we never imagined.”
Through our interview with Hojo, we felt that the exploration of shikohin and its enjoyment are limitless and profound.
Non-Alcoholic Gin NEMA 0.00%
Cocktail Bar Nemanja
Translation: Sophia Swanson
Advisor to corporations, and local governments on promoting local tourism. Published work includes, “Aomori & Hakodate Travel Book” (Daimond), “San’in Travel: Craft and Food Tour” (Mynavi), “A Drunkard’s Travel Guide: Sake, Snacks, and Tableware Tour” (Mynavi). Her life work is to explore towns in her travels, drink at different shops and visit the workshops of different crafts. Interests include tea, the Jomon period, architecture, and fermented foods.
Editor. Born and raised in Kagoshima, the birthplace of Japanese tea. Worked for Impress, Inc. and Huffington Post Japan and has been involved in the launch and management of media after becoming independent. Does editing, writing, and content planning/production.