In the heart of Nagoya, Aichi Prefecture, nestled amid the city’s bustling energy, lies Izumo, a small-scale Japanese restaurant.
Operating on a members-only basis, it’s not a place anyone can simply walk into. Yet, once inside, you’ll discover a space that is deeply connected to the world in more ways than one.
We sat down with Chef Shigenobu Otani, a culinary master whose creations have delighted the palates of dignitaries from around the world, to discuss the philosophy behind his cuisine and his thoughts on the exploration of shikohin experiences.
The secret cockpit was the entrance to a world of wonder
Otani grinned as he proudly displayed a large contemporary painting and said, “Isn’t this great?” It was an art piece painted by Otani himself.
Finding time between his demanding work, Otani dedicated several months to completing the piece—a large-scale artwork that reflects both his extraordinary sense of style and unwavering commitment.
As we admired another small painting on the wall, reminiscent of Moriichi Kumagai’s style, Otani laughed and said, “I painted that too. I call it my ‘fake Moriichi’ piece.”
Otani insists that painting is merely a pastime for him, yet the quality of his work leaves us questioning whether he is more of an artist or a chef.
He then led us to a hidden, cockpit-like room—a space that seems to function as an extension of his mind. What lay inside defied simple description. It was a surreal fusion of academia, magic, and artistry—a museum of another dimension.
Perhaps the best way to describe it is a modern-day Wunderkammer—a small, secret chamber overflowing with rare and precious treasures.
The walls of the room were lined not only with cookbooks but also with an array of books spanning Japanese history, classic literature, and specialized works on art and design. The sheer breadth of knowledge contained within gave the space an almost immeasurable depth of scale.
Between the books, we found faded vintage whiskey and wine labels—rare relics nearly impossible to find today. Scattered throughout the room were elegant antique vessels, vibrant and whimsical art pieces, and an assortment of objects placed seemingly at random. Yet, despite its curated chaos, the space exuded an unexpectedly warm and inviting atmosphere.
Otani’s circle of friends includes many artists of different genres, from music, arts and crafts. He says many of the objects in the room were given to him as gifts through interactions with fellow like-minded artists.
His art collection reflected his intellectual curiosity as well as playfulness, yet expressed an unshakable core rich in variety. We were amazed at the depth of Otani’s world.
His unique aesthetic and world view transcends the boundaries of a chef and is awe-inspiring.
Cooking was a part of life, but Otani had no intention of becoming a chef
Otani was born and raised in Nagoya. When he was two years old, his parents, originally from Shimane Prefecture, opened a Japanese restaurant. Growing up, he watched them run the establishment. His parents frequently took him to top-tier sushi bars and high-end restaurants, refining his palate from a young age.
“I loved abalone when I was in kindergarten. But I wouldn’t eat the ones that were already prepared—I would go straight to the fish tank and pick out the one I wanted! I was fortunate to have many opportunities to enjoy luxurious foods as a child.”
Despite this upbringing, Otani says he never intended on becoming a chef.
He was more interested in art, such as drawing, photography and music. He also enjoyed riding on his motorcycle, occasionally setting off on camping trips around Japan.
Although he eventually found himself working at a restaurant, he had little ambition at the time—simply doing the day to day work at hand. Once he saved enough money, he would go on trips, living each day as it came.
Eventually, Otani took over the family restaurant.
At the time, it was not a members-only establishment, and the surrounding cityscape had changed significantly over the years. The number of restaurants in the area had dwindled, and foot traffic had declined. Before long, theirs was the only restaurant left, surrounded by what had become more of a red-light district.
One evening, a longtime regular from his parents’ generation visited the restaurant with a friend.
The moment the customer glanced at the ingredients displayed in the glass case, he scoffed, “What’s this? There’s nothing here I want!” He then tossed some money onto the counter and said, “Make sure you have something better next time.” Without ordering a single dish, he walked out.
Otani was 27 at the time.
That moment forced him to question everything. What am I doing? Can I continue like this? What do I really want? It was a turning point that made him confront himself in a way he never had before.
From that experience, his entire attitude toward work shifted. He revisited the fundamentals of cooking, devouring old culinary texts in search of knowledge. He even gave up riding his motorcycle, realizing that an injury could keep him from working.
Today, he says he finds joy in everything he does and has a new found passion for cooking.
A “Fantasista” who cooks up dishes on the spot
Otani began preparing duck meat in front of us.
In less than two minutes, the duck was expertly prepared, leaving not a single trace of blood on the cutting board. The process was so mesmerizing, it felt like witnessing a perfectly choreographed musical performance.
The duck was then seared with impeccable timing, its flavors expertly enhanced to highlight the rich umami of the meat.
Each dish is prepared on the spot, right before your eyes—a testament to Otani’s mastery. It’s no wonder that customers at Izumo have come to call him a true “Fantasista.”
Sessions which incorporate global tastes, history, culture and the people who gather there
Otani’s culinary reach now extends far beyond Japan.
Food enthusiasts and dignitaries from around the world seek out his cuisine. His journey reads like a film script, unfolding in ways beyond imagination.
With nothing but his knife in hand, Otani travels across the globe—from Italy and Scotland to Nepal and Guatemala—continuing to push the boundaries of his craft.
As we witnessed in his duck preparation, Otani’s brilliance as a chef lies in his ability to improvise.
He instinctively reads the climate and terroir of the region, the atmosphere of the space, and the energy of his guests, crafting dishes that are a perfect reflection of that moment in time.
From the instant a customer steps into the restaurant, he observes their face and immediately begins tailoring his approach.
“Every person is unique—their voice, physique, even the way they walk. I notice countless details about a guest’s state of being, from the sound of their footsteps on the floorboards to the angle of their elbow as they drink water, whether they sip quickly or take their time.”
“As long as my guests feel at ease and can fully enjoy the food and experience, I am happy.”
Once Otani understands what each customer needs, he responds with quick-witted precision, always going beyond expectations.
He is like a musician or DJ, improvising in the moment to captivate his audience, or a tea master, meticulously crafting an experience of perfect hospitality for each encounter.
Rather than simply serving in a conventional sense, his approach feels like an artistic collaboration—an exchange of senses that elevates the moment into something truly extraordinary.
Otani has cooked for dignitaries from around the world and has also prepared sacred meals for Shinto rituals. With deep respect and understanding for diverse races, religions, and local cultures, he tailors his approach to each unique setting.
This commitment to cultural sensitivity is why he immerses himself in literature, seeks guidance from masters, and continuously engages in deep study. He delves into the essence of each subject, breaking it down in his mind—a process he considers essential to his craft.
“Right now, I happen to be expressing myself through Japanese cuisine,” he reflects. “But ultimately, I hope to create a culinary experience that is not limited to any genre.”
Understanding the land through water and the relationship of food and drink
Otani frequently crafts his own original drinks, applying the same philosophy to their creation as he does to his cooking. When it comes to pairings, he believes that neither food nor drink should take precedence—both should shine as the main feature in the experience.
He carefully selects the finest seasonal ingredients, prioritizing both health and safety. At the same time, he delves into the terroir, history, and culture of a region, weaving a narrative that reflects the people, their philosophies, values, and emotions.
“Each region has its own water source. I drink the local water to understand the land.”
Otani draws out the essence of the water and ingredients, allowing diners to experience the spirit of the region—not just through taste, but as a sensation that permeates the body, evoking both excitement and nostalgia.
On the day of service, he carefully observes the atmosphere, attuning himself to the energy of the space and the expressions of his guests.
Each bite offers a new surprise, a harmonious interplay of flavors that leave a lasting impression without overwhelming the next bite. His ultimate goal is for guests to wake up the next morning feeling rejuvenated—an experience that lingers beyond the meal itself.
Cooking as an art of time and creating new shikohin experiences
Even as society advances with new cutting-edge technologies, Otani believes in cherishing the fundamentals—the deep understanding of origins that forms the foundation for true creative freedom.
“Today, we have countless convenient tools—refrigerators, vacuum packaging, steam convection ovens—but if we truly grasp the basics of temperature, humidity, and air pressure, we can replicate winter conditions in the height of summer or even manipulate the atmospheric pressure changes brought by an approaching typhoon.”
“I value such fundamentals and the feeling of being centered on a solid foundation.”
What kind of new shikohin experiences that embody the art of time does Otani envision creating in the future?
“Building on what I mentioned earlier, I feel that new technology allows me to seamlessly navigate between ancient techniques and modern innovations—it’s as if I have a time machine.”
“No matter how classic a recipe may be, both the people preparing it and those enjoying it exist in the present. In that sense, cooking itself is an art of time, but the way we perceive and interpret that time can transform its appeal in various ways.”
Otani immerses himself fully in nature through his cooking, drawing from the past while contemplating the possibilities of the future.
“Talking about creating new shikohin experiences might sound like a formal pursuit, but for me, it’s simply about working with the ingredients in front of me at each moment. I aim to reflect the atmosphere of the space, the people present, and my own vision—nothing more, nothing less.”
“If that results in a new shikohin experience, a shift in daily rituals, or even the fading of past traditions, I believe everything naturally finds its place, shaped by each individual’s perspective.”
“It’s not something that can be universally shared or understood in the same way by everyone. But within those differences—whether they evoke beauty, sorrow, or laughter—lies something meaningful. My role is simply to scoop up those emotions as they surface.”
“And if, at the end of it all, the customer thanks me for the meal, that is the highest fulfillment I can achieve as a chef.”
Translation: Sophia Swanson
Advisor to corporations, and local governments on promoting local tourism. Published work includes, “Aomori & Hakodate Travel Book” (Daimond), “San’in Travel: Craft and Food Tour” (Mynavi), “A Drunkard’s Travel Guide: Sake, Snacks, and Tableware Tour” (Mynavi). Her life work is to explore towns in her travels, drink at different shops and visit the workshops of different crafts. Interests include tea, the Jomon period, architecture, and fermented foods.
Editor and creator of the future through words. Former associate editor of Huffington Post Japan. Became independent after working for a publishing company and overseas news media. Assists in communications for corporates and various projects. Born in Gifu, loves cats.